Senior copywriter of the wine service Invisible.ru tells why some wines are much more expensive than others and whether it makes sense to go broke for elite bottles
Many of those who at least somehow know the wine, there is a fad: “Wine is cheaper than the ennum amount (say, 2000 rubles) I do not drink, it is miserable and me unworthy.” To justify this, they try emotionally and pretentiously: it seems like this is not a show off, but a craving for beauty. A truly fine wine, they say, does not happen cheap. We wondered where the line between ordinary wine and expensive is and whether an expensive wine of its money is worth.
What wine to consider expensive
Here everyone decides for himself. One at the sight of the price tag above 1000 rubles just a finger at the temple twists, and for another and 10,000 for a bottle to lay out – no problem. On average, expensive wine can be considered from 5000 rubles: about a cavist in a wine cellar pours with a special expression on the face. And you, dragging the trophy to the apartment, googles “how to decant the red correctly.”
Why expensive wine is so much worth
1) The uniqueness of vineyards
The best does not happen much. Wine geese believe that vineyards with ideal conditions in the world once or twice and obchelsya. In the same arrogant Burgundy, the status of the Grand Cru (“great”) has only 33 pieces of land from a hectare to a few each. They differ from each other in the same terroir – that is, the location, the wind rose, the nature of the soil, the flora and fauna – in general, each piece is unique, and it is expressed in a no less unique price tag.
2) Mastery of winemaker + strength of traditions
When the estate is famous for its wines about two or three hundred years ago, its next winemaker knows from and to the nature of each bush of grapes and all the technical nuances. In the same Chateau Margot, for example, since the XVIII century, grapes are harvested two or three berries from a bunch and strictly after noon, so that the dew can dry on them, which liquefies the grape juice. Such pedantry and iron following the ancient rules pay off as well.
3) The role of the brand
Status consumption (in the people – Ponte), no one canceled: the eminent brand means prestige, only it will save from sorrows and complexes. Up to a certain point, the brand is not that bad. Firstly, a great name, I want to believe, guarantees quality. Secondly, the brand is a story, without which it is not always easy to unfasten the half-wage for the wine. The guests should also be hinted that they drink not just expensive red, but red from grapes, which 100 years ago they planted an opera tenor with an abandoned career. And the label was drawn by his youngest son, who was born right there, among the vines in the spring. And who cares, “was there a boy”, “Iliad” – also just a fantasy of one Greek.
4) Presence of customers
Very expensive wines are so expensive, because they can afford it. Let some samples and stand as a dacha in the suburbs, they will still be taken. And instaturnit still life with black caviar and champagne “Arman de Brignac” for 500 euros per bottle – so certainly not to lose.
When everything converges – and a unique vineyard with ancient vines, and a talented winemaker in the 20th generation, and a load of history from which even the tops of oil corporations are letting tart tear – it turns out not just expensive but “great wine”.
What is “great wine”
Great wines are the apogee of high prices and additional meanings. In the classical interpretation of the great called wine, which produce several fairly well-known estates in Bordeaux. Connoisseurs and terry aesthetes compare their impressions with the pictures and symphonies. A wine evangelist among hipsters and author of the Wine Folly blog Madeleine Pockett avoids analogies with the sublime, simply says that great and close to them wines are like Porsche and Bugatti among cars.
“This story is more about the consumer than about the wine itself,” writes Madeleine. – This wine is not about everyday life. People take it to show off, although sometimes they can not feel the difference in taste. ”
And it’s true that in order to fully experience the nuances of the bottle for a couple of hundred euros, you must have at least a good experience of tasting. A newcomer will hardly notice that he drinks an outstanding Bordeaux, if not to tell him about it in advance. However, the prepared people are pierced.
Taste: cheap vs expensive
Take the same wine critics. Confidence in them was undermined by the experiment of Brochet, who already stuffed all the people who work with wine. In 2001, Frederic Brochet, a doctor of biochemistry from Bordeaux, poured out white and supposedly red (which was also white, just tinted) to oenological students and asked to describe the taste and aroma of each. The test showed that if a person sees a red glass in the glass, he sincerely tries out the typical cherry reds and spices in the taste, even if he drinks the dyed white.
Brochet did the same trick with cheap and “expensive” wine (on the second bottle of cheap glued the label gran gr). The result: the counterfeit Grand Prix students called the “complex” and “rounded.” In the retelling of press and bloggers, students became wine critics, and the latter have since been fashionable as charlatans, and the difference between expensive and cheap wine is far-fetched.
Where is the truth?
If we sum up all the tests that have been spent a million since Brochet, a picture emerges. Yes, the elements of autosuggestion in the perception of wine are. And in the glass, we find exactly what our own imagination and olfactory experience (the ability to recognize smells and tastes), which is learned from practice, will tell us. Sometimes, a wine like and unpretentious, but pierced, because he smelled his grandmother’s jam. And it happens, and the famous critic Robert Parker 99 points, but the truffles in the glass are not encouraging. In general, everything is very personal.
Moreover, experienced critics, even on blind tastings, often praise the depth and beauty of expensive specimens, that is, they have been trained to be more or less objective. But for most sensible wine drinkers, aerobatics, fortunately, are able to find a cheap wine, but able to impress on the full.
To help everyone who wants to understand wine and read about it in human language – wine service Invisible . There all our Moscow adult readers are waiting for a gift – two regular wine glasses with the first order.